Author Archives: Stephanie

About Stephanie

Stephanie Hsu (Taipei, Taiwan) currently steps lively on the streets of Taipei finishing her undergraduate studies. After having had many an adventure on the streets of New York, Los Angeles, and Kansas City, she happily left it all behind for Taiwan, where she falls in love with each new leafy lane. Though she officially studies communications, she spends her time pursuing deeper knowledge of a number of different loves, from travel to teatime; fair-trade fashion to rooftop philosophizing.

10 Things I Saw Today: And Actually Stopped to See

A few months ago, I sat down at my computer in a rare fit of inspiration and wrote myself a  manifesto of sorts. At that time, I was entering to a season of life in a new city, a season where I’d be enrolled in both an intensive Chinese language course as well as a regular undergrad course load. Add that to tutoring, and family obligations, and so. The days seemed to be rushing by, and I seemed to be rushing by– with nothing to distinguish today from the next day, and the next. I was missing the details.

And so I wrote, in stern reminder to myself, some rules.

Put a spring in your step & feel the breeze along your face when you’re walking to class. Look at the people you pass on the street. Even when you’re in a hurry. In fact, especially when you’re in a hurry.

Stop & admire the flower pattern on your coffee cup in the cafe you’re whiling away the afternoon at; at the vibrant color of the mint spring decorating your dessert. Take a photo or two, or sit back in your chair and just look for a minute, without saying anything at all. Slow down. Don’t worry about your friends thinking you’re weird–after all, they’ll understand. 

They did. And so I present: the 10 marvelous things I saw today, and actually slowed down to relish.

One of the things I like best about living in Taipei is the contrast of the sleek and modern with the traditional, such as the “wet” markets that still spring up in alleys all over Taipei. This particular one is a street away from where I live.

From the wet market on Taishun St, it’s only a hop and a skip over to National Taiwan Normal University, where I take Chinese classes each morning. It’s a bit of a challenge at times to wake up knowing that 50+ new complicated characters await you at 10am, but one can’t be gloomy when there’s pink-colored cookies to much on while learning them.

And what is this mouthwatering array of deliciousness, you ask? A world-class buffet spread? Hardly. It’s the bian dang (Chinese lunch box) place right across from my house. A box of kong shing cai (a delicious Chinese veggie), roasted eggplants with garlic, tea-boiled eggs, and soy-sauce simmered fish will ring up a satisfying 55 NT (less than $2 USD).

Being enrolled in two schools’ programs at once, coupled with a roster of differing daily events, cuts my time at home down to rather less than I would like. But a half-hour home at the kitchen table, eating my bian dang and garnering some much-needed snuggles from my cats, Peter and Peanut, never fails to give me the energy to tackle the afternoon.

I’m not enrolled in classes this particular afternoon; and as I had a bit of time before I had to tutor, I took a quick stroll around the Xinyi shopping area of Taipei: a glitzy, sleek contrast to my morning wet market. I simply adore the floors of the Eslite Bookstore in Taipei–look at those colors!

Spent my tutoring session, as always, holed up in the corner of a cafe with my tutoree and helping her improve her English conversation. It’s so interesting to hear the perspective and thoughts of an elementary school student in the Taiwanese schooling system, which is radically different from that in the US. I know her day is very strict, so I like to lighten the mood up a bit by always bringing in some interesting topics Although I do think we talk rather too much about food….

And speaking of food, I know it seems rather impossible, but you can’t always have Chinese (or Taiwanese, as the case may be). A little alley off of the famous foodie street Yongkang Jie provides the perfect almost-summer dinner (Taiwan’s famous humidity is setting in already), washed down with a can of coconut water, my favorite hot-weather drink.

Now look at that sky, at that horizon (Taipei, 7:30pm)–and tell me you don’t feel perhaps a bit smaller, but a little more happier, and a lot more hopeful.

Ended the day at Revolver, a bar/art house/music venue with my favorite Swede, Sandra. Every month they host an open-mic acoustic-set night (in contrast to their usual raging, DJ-led parties). Oh, and to go along with the music, red wine for 50 NT per glass (around $1.50 USD). Tonight we met to celebrate Sandra’s graduation, but also to just celebrate life: the strange, the charming, the fascinating things we encounter in the cracks and crevices of our routine lives when we slow down and try to find that which makes each day uniquely marvelous. 

Transitory Tales: I Think I’ll Stay, Taipei



I read a quote today.

I was lazily browsing through books at  Eslite, Taipei’s biggest bookstore, when I stumbled upon this:

 …”For if every true love affair can feel like a journey to a foreign country, where you can’t quite speak the language, and you don’t know where you’re going, and you’re pulled ever deeper into the inviting darkness….every trip to a foreign country can be a love affair, where you’re left puzzling over who you are, and whom you’ve fallen in love with. All good trips are, like love, about being carried out of yourself and being deposited in the midst of terror and wonder.” (Pico Iyer, Why We Travel.)

I thought it was beautiful and true.

I’m beginning a new journey this year, a journey that I never could have imagined I’d be starting. I’m scared, I’m excited, I’m thrilled to be living in, studying in, and joining those throngs of black-haired denizens on the MRT as an inhabitant of Taipei. I indeed feel–carried out of myself. And I relish it. I’ll take it all, the terror. And the wonder.

I’ve got so much yet to see, and so much lies ahead. All I know is that I’m on my way to finding out more about who I am, and this achingly beautiful city that I’ve fallen in love with, but still know so little about.

It’s really the story of a girl who lost her heart to the leafy lanes and child-like charm of Taipei, and left behind the world’s most famed city (a certain Big Apple) without an ounce of regret– in order to find it again.

The story begins at my birth, you see. My Chinese name consists of three characters: 許正怡. The third character was chosen by my grandfather. The left side of the character is the radical meaning “heart”. The latter half is the “Tai”, the “Tai” in “Taipei”. “Out of all my grandchildren,” my grandfather said, “Her heart will always belong the most to Taipei”. And despite my middle and high-school years of scoffing at and denying of my Asian identity—I realize now that he was right all along.

I graduated high school in Los Angeles three years ago, with college admissions letters staring me in the face, beckoning me to continue my education. In the end, I found myself living in Bushwick, Brooklyn, working with inner-city children in the projects of New York City. I spent six delirious months alternately knocking on derelict doors on the Lower East Side and exploring the chic wonders of districts like hipster Williamsburg and glamourous Fifth Avenue. An unexpected turn of events brought me to Kansas City, Missouri; where I lived a life of spiritual solitude in complete contrast to my whirling life in New York City. One and a half years of quaint thrift stores and too many trips to Wal-Mart, I decided I had had enough. I applied for school in New York City and anxiously counted down the days until I could return to the “concrete jungle”.

But first, I had one summer before I moved back to New York City, the city of my dreams. And tragically, I had to spend it in Taipei, Taiwan. My family had just moved to Taipei from Los Angeles, and they wanted me there before I headed off to school. I resigned myself to a summer of cultural blunders and smelly suffering.

But by July, it was all over. I’ll never forget that summer. I can’t pinpoint a moment, but I suppose somewhere in one of those leafy lanes… I fell in love. I fell in love with Taipei. Though I adore the city at any time of day, dusk in Taipei stood out particularly in my memory, for it suits the city so well. So many almost-nights wandering in the glow of quiet cafes and quaint boutiques; the sound of the street a faint echo in the background; the soothing night-heat wrapped around me like a blanket. I adored the chaotic, messy excitement of Taipei’s night-markets, wholly devoid of  pretense. I loved the warmth of the people, from the prim worker at 7-11 to the grimy construction worker eating noodles at a open-air stall. And quite honestly, Taipei offered a life of delight (and the most mouthwatering food) at half the cost.

When September came, I cried the entire plane ride to New York City, tears wiped away by the flimsy Continental Airlines napkin. It was so strange—for the longest time, I was unbearably excited to go to New York; to be finally able to call it “my city”. But it was then I realized that the spot  in my heart for “my city“, for so long designated for the Big Apple,—had already been filled. No other applicants need apply–somewhere along the way, Taipei had slowly snuck into the spot.

I spent four months trying to be a New Yorker, nearly killing myself (fashion internship, retail job, club president, honors college) and depleting the entire nation of its coffee stores in the process. I left New York for Taipei during winter break with a battered body and scattered mind, with absolutely no idea that I wouldn’t be returning.

The minute my bus pulled into the familiar streets of Taipei, the thought of leaving it, from its magical alleyways to my two adorable cats, from the plethora of cafes to the bustling excitement of the night markets, made my heart sink. I want to be in Taipei, I thought. I don’t want to go back to New York. But my wish seemed unattainable. I couldn’t just leave a university in the middle of the school year. I had already registered for classes in the fall.

But to leave Taiwan, I thought, What could possibly be worse? It all culminated in a mini-breakdown on the beach in the south of Taiwan (a rather good place, as far as breakdown locations go)—where I decided that it really was this simple: I had to be in Taipei. The next day, I officially “moved” to Taipei.

Even now, months later, enrolled in a Taiwanese university and studying Chinese,  I still walk out the door at times into the “midst of terror and wonder.” I still wake up some days puzzling over how I summoned the guts to move here–and how fortunate I am to be able to walk through the bustling streets of the city that stole my heart.

Taipei, wo ai ni.  Let’s make some beautiful tales together.

mooitrouve22

Mooi Trouve: A ‘Recycled’ Cafe, Taipei.

In Taiwan, we take our recycling seriously. The first few months after I moved into the student district Gongguan in Taipei, I found my recycling habits (or lack thereof) scolded so much that I just took to looking sheepishly around me whenever I saw a trash can. I soon came to realize that the desire to repurpose and recycle in Taiwan extended beyond glass bottles and cans, but to bigger and better things: say, old Japanese buildings?

The Japanese-style structures tucked into the alleys of Gongguan are relics of as era past, when the Japanese colonized Taiwan and founded what is now recognized as Taiwan’s top university,  台大(National Taiwan University). Their tiled roofs and sliding doors housed generations of professors and visiting scholars. After the Japanese left Taiwan, the buildings simply sat, unsold and unused, falling into greater neglect with each season of pounding Taiwanese rain.


Last year, news got around that the owner of my former favorite cafe,the hipper –than-hip Ecole  (beloved for it’s perfect-for-studying butcher tables and all the back issues of Monocle that I could possibly desire) was granted a lease by the university to renovate one of the old Japanese structures along Taishun Street. Along with the rest of the Taiwanese cafe junkies,I waited with bated breath to see what marvelous thing would result. And soon, Mooi Trouve was birthed, on a quiet lane just a two minute stroll from my apartment. Like all the best cafes, you’d walk past right it if you weren’t in on the secret. Once you turn right, away from the chaotic traditional market on Taishun Street, stop when you see the whimsical black-and-yellow wall murals, done by one of Taiwan’s most recognizable graffiti artists.

Half of the house has been turned into a vintage furniture shop, selling carefully curated knicknacks and items (a bright red tin lunchbox from the 1950s, anyone?) The other half has been turned into a rustic-chic cafe that masterfully highlights the wood-work of the original structure. I find myself at Mooi Trouve again and again, crunching through big, fresh romaine salads that I crave when I can no longer stand the limp iceberg salads that seem to be ubiquitous in Taipei dining. Under the gracefully aging timbers of the roof , I’ve weathered chilly Taiwanese nights with their delicious baked lasagnas and sweated sultry summer nights with an ice-cold glass of their fresh carrot juice. Most often, I find myself there grabbing a drink to accompany my books, joining the mix of artistic and student types that have made themselves regulars at Mooi. The structure has come a long way: once an abandoned, unnoticed shack, it’s become a cafe that one simply can’t just walk past.

I can’t help but admire the island’s commitment to
saving the old, for seeing the potential for it to be made new. My absentmindedness  
towards glass bottles still occasionally earns me stern reprimands from old Taiwanese people on the street. But if it’s that attitude that has turned a beautiful old structure, slated for disaster, into a homey place where I can get a glass of red wine and a little plate of cheese to wash down my marketing homework, I must say that I don’t quite mind.

Mooi Trouve

4, Ln 16, Taishun St, Taipei City// (02) 2366-1335

Hours: Sun-Thurs. 10am-10pm/Weekends 10am-midnight

Student-friendly: Free wi-fi

MRT: Guting

Photos via shu flies