Tag Archives: czech republic

Prague’s Summer Beer Gardens

The Czech Republic is a landlocked country, but Praguers know how to make the most of what they’ve got. Locals bring a beach atmosphere to the riverside and the many beer gardens that dot the city. Prague’s beer gardens are the perfect place to relax during the hot summer months. Best of all, you don’t even have to be a beer drinker to enjoy them! These open-air parks are perfect for picnics, sunbathing, dog walking, and people watching. Here’s the lowdown on my two favorites, Riegrovy sady and Letenské sady.

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Riegrovy Sady

Located on a large hill in Vinohrady, Riegrovy sady is my favorite place to relax on a warm day. The park has both a pub and an open-air beer garden; the beer garden is a popular gathering place to watch sporting matches.

Riegrovy sady beer garden

After grabbing a drink and some snacks (the beer garden serves Czech pub food like klobasas and marinated cheese), find a grassy spot to sit and enjoy the view. Because of its elevation, Riegrovy sady affords lovely views of the city.

Riegrovy sady

It’s also a beautiful place to watch the sun set. You can see some of the city’s most famous landmarks silhouetted against the fiery sky.

Riegrovy sady sunset

Riegrovy sady: Metro Jiřího z Poděbrad (Line A) or Muzeum (Lines A/C)

 Letenské Sady

The beer garden in Letná Park is another popular outdoor gathering place. This expansive park covers a high plain overlooking the Vltava River. The beer garden has kiosks that serve drinks, snacks, and ice cream.

Letna kiosk

You can also buy klobasas hot off the grill. There are plenty of benches for sitting, or you can relax in the grass.

Letna klobasas

The views from Letenské sady are breathtaking: you can see an incredible panorama of the Vltava and its bridges, Old Town, and Malá Strana.

Letna view

 Letenské sady: Metro Malostranská (Line A) or Vltavská (Line C)

I love the community atmosphere of a public park on a beautiful day. When spring finally came to Prague after a long, dark winter, it was delightful to see people emerge from their shells and enjoy the outdoors–throwing frisbees, playing catch with their dogs, and soaking up the sun.

What are your favorite outdoor gathering places in your city?

Gluten-Free Eats in Prague

gluten-free prague

Prague may seem like a danger-zone for celiacs; it is, after all, a city known for cold beer and hearty dumplings.  While finding gluten-free offerings can sometimes be a challenge, there are plenty of health shops and GF-friendly restaurants to support a gluten-free traveler. Once you know where those places are, finding a variety of tasty food options is a piece of (almond flour-based) cake!

Here are the places where I’ve found gluten-free offerings in Prague. There are several others I haven’t tried yet, so please check the resources list for more!

Restaurants

While Prague only has one completely gluten-free restaurant, several places around the city offer gluten-free menus or otherwise cater to people with GF diets.

Na Zlaté křižovatce (At the Golden Crossing)

Prague’s first and only 100% gluten-free restaurant, Na Zlaté křižovatce, is located near the Florenc metro station. This restaurant serves delicious GF versions of traditional Czech food, including dumplings and pancakes. They also have a Czech gluten-free beer (Celia) on tap. There’s  a small shop where you can purchase gluten-free food (flour mixes, bread, cookies, etc.)  and beer to take home.

Website: http://www.nazlatekrizovatce.cz/en/index.php

U Malé velryby (Little Whale)

This delightful little restaurant in Malá Strana is extremely accommodating to people with gluten-free diets; for example, they serve fresh GF bread.

Website: http://www.umalevelryby.cz/en/restaurace/

 The Augustine Hotel/Lichfield Restaurant

The kitchen at the Augustine Hotel, also in Malá Strana, can prepare gluten-free bread, pasta, muffins, and breakfast cereal.

Website: http://www.theaugustine.com/dining/

Pizza Colosseum 

The Pizza Colosseum chain, with several locations around Prague, offers gluten-free pasta.

Website: http://www.pizzacoloseum.cz/cz

Maitrea

Prague’s best vegetarian restaurant has delicious, clearly-marked gluten-free options, from raw cheesecake to meatless “no-chicken” and mushroom balls with mashed potatoes and coriander.

Website: http://www.restaurace-maitrea.cz/en/

Shops

Some of Prague’s grocery stores carry gluten-free products; for example, Tesco has gluten-free rice/soy cakes. You’ll also find specialty health food stores that carry a wide selection of GF food.

Drogeriemarkt (DM)

This chain of drugstores (it’s like a Central European CVS) has a section of gluten-free products. You’ll find flour mixes, bread, cookies and sweets, cereal, pasta, and more. DM stores can be found all around Prague.

Website: http://www.dm-drogeriemarkt.cz/

BioPoint

This little gem is located in Prague’s main train station (Praha hlavní nádraží). BioPoint is a small bio (organic) shop with an entire gluten-free food section. It’s a great place to stock up on food and snacks if you’re arriving in Prague by train (or when you head out to your next city). A second BioPoint can be found in the Masaryk railway station (Praha Masarykovo nádraží) near Náměstí Republiky.

Website: http://www.bio-point.cz/bio/

Country Life

Country Life is a chain of health food stores with four locations in Prague (three also have restaurants). They offer a large selection of gluten-free foods.

Website: http://www.countrylife.cz/prodejny-biopotravin-a-zdrave-vyzivy-country-life

Galerie Piva

This beer shop in Malá Strana sells Celia, a Czech gluten-free beer.

Website: http://www.nelso.com/cz/place/206/

GF Resources

Celiak.cz  has information in Czech, English, and Italian, including recipes, grocery stores, and restaurants. They also have a “restaurant card,” which you print out and carry in your wallet; it explains what a gluten-free diet entails in Czech.

Lonely Planet has a forum on gluten-free food in Prague. So does Trip Advisor.

The Gluten-Free Hotels Guide has a page on Prague.

David Černý’s Prague

David Černý is a controversial Czech sculptor whose works can be found scattered across Prague. Černý cemented his status as artist-provocateur in 1991 when, as an art student, he painted a Soviet tank bright pink. I wrote about the infamous Pink Tank on my blog last year:

In 1991, Czech artist David Černý and his art school friends painted a Soviet tank (a memorial to the 1945 liberation of Czechoslovakia) a flamboyant shade of pink and mounted a giant middle finger on its turret roof. This was two years after the Velvet Revolution, and the tank was an unpleasant reminder of the 1968 Soviet invasion. The stunt landed Černý in jail and the pink was covered up with a layer of olive green paint. In protest of Černý’s arrest, a group of members of parliament re-painted the tank pink. Černý was eventually released from jail, the tank’s status as a national monument was abolished…

pink tank

Černý pulled another prank in 2009, when the Czech Republic ascended to the presidency of the European Union. Commissioned to create a sculpture in collaboration with other European artists as a symbol of unified Europe, Černý instead unveiled Entropa: a giant installation he made with two friends that portrayed the most embarrasing stereotypes of each EU members state. (For example: France is a banner emblazoned with the declaration Grève!–Strike!–and Italy is represented by masturbating football players).

entropa

Černý’s work combines absurdist, self-deprecating humor with a highly skeptical, irreverent attitude toward power and authority. In an interview with the New York Times, he suggests that this attitude (which can be found throughout Czech art and literature) has its roots in the country’s history of authoritarian rule, invasion, and occupation:

The Czech attitude is not to be proud of being Czech…It is a positive thing for me, but it also has a dark side, which is that we never won any war. In America, people are taught to be proud and as visible as possible. Here in this country, we are taught to be silent and invisible.

Piss

Speaking of self-deprecating humor, Černý’s sculpture Piss–located outside the Kafka museum on Kampa Island–shows two men urinating into a pool shaped like the Czech Republic. Visitors can send an SMS to a number posted near the statue, and the two men will “write” the message with their streams of water.

piss

Saint Wenceslas

The giant equestrian status of Saint Wenceslas in Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square) is a symbol of Czech national identity, depicting the patron saint of Bohemia. But if you wander off the square into the nearby Lucerna pasáž, you’ll find another Černý project: a massive sculpture of Saint Wenceslas riding a dead, upside-down horse suspended from the ceiling.

vaclav

 Žižkov Television Tower

The Žižkov TV tower is the tallest structure in Prague, at 216 meters. It was built between 1985 and 1992, and was reputedly used by the Communists to jam Radio Free Europe’s radio transmissions. In 2000, Černý’s crawling babies were attached to the tower and now remain as a permanent installation.

tv tower miminkaTrabant on Legs

In 1989, before the revolution, East Germans fled en masse to West Germany through Prague. Thousands of refugees climbed the fence of the German Embassy, abandoning their cars in the streets of Prague. David Černý commemorated this exodus with the statue Quo Vadis, which depicts a golden Trabant (the cars driven by Eastern Germans) with legs. It is on display in the gardens of the German Embassy in Prague.

trabant

Embryo

It’s easy to miss this installation if you’re not looking for it–an embryo on a drainpipe in Prague’s Old Town that glows eerily at night.

embryo

Miminka (Babies) on Kampa

More David Černý babies, this time outside the Museum Kampa.

kampa miminka

Man Hanging Out

Another one that’s easy to overlook–Sigmund Freud suspended from a beam in Old Town. Černý reportedly created this piece “in response to the question of what role the intellectual would play in the new millennium.”

hanging

Klaus and Knizak

Not everyone loves David Černý; he has earned the very public ire of Milan Knizak, director of Prague’s National Gallery. In Černý’s 2003 installation “Brown Nosers,” visitors climb a ladder to reach a giant rear end, inside which plays a video of Knizak and Czech president Václav Klaus (played by impersonators, of course) feeding each other slop to the song “We Are the Champions.”

klaus knizak

Guns

Černý’s installation “Guns” hangs in the entryway to the Artbanka Museum of Young Art.

guns

Meet Factory

Meet Factory is an art space designed and founded by David Černý. Located in an abandoned factory, it is a combination artists’ residence, exhibition space, and performance venue.

meet factory

David Černý’s public art installations make a great, quirky walking tour of Prague. Click on the image below for my Google Map of Černý sculptures around the city.

google map

* Photo 1 (Entropa) by Cea; Photo 4 (Saint Wenceslas) by Gigliola Hawthorne; Photo 10 (Man Hanging Out) by Marcella Bona; Photo 11 (Klaus and Knizak) by grahamc99; Photo 12 (Meet Factory) by AsaPeka

RU.KA.MA. Art and Craft Market

The RU.KA.MA. Art & Craft market is the brainchild of two French expats living in Prague: stained glass artist Fred Schendel and jewelry designer Marion Lieutet. Fred and Marion first began organizing art fairs in Prague last year (under the name “Bienvenue”) with a several goals in mind. They wanted to shed light on the talent of local Czech designers, and at the same time bring together artists from different countries. They also wanted to create community events that would bring life to a neighborhood.

RU.KA.MA. draws its name from the Czech word rukama, or “made by hand.” The market took place all day on Saturday, May 26th in the courtyard of the Jan Deyl Conservatory, a music school for visually-impaired students, in the quaint Malá Strana district of Prague. About 20 artists from around Europe displayed their work. Local businesses also partnered with the market so that anyone who bought an entrance ticket to the event could enjoy discounts at nearby restaurants.

Rukama banner

The market was a fun community event that brought together locals, expats, and tourists–three groups that often don’t interact on a regular basis. Adults and kids alike took in live entertainment and hands-on workshops with artists, and (in true Prague fashion), dogs frolicked in canine heaven. It was a lively, sunny spring day.

rukama entranceMusicians from the Jan Deyl Conservatory (like this accordianist) performed throughout the day. A traveling circus group also stopped by to entertain the market-goers.

accordion

The artists of RU.KA.MA. displayed all sorts of crafts, from sculpture to origami. The diversity of the art at the market was impressive. Marion Lieutet (France) presented her line of art nouveau-inspired jewelry, Seraphine Bijoux.

jewelry

There were also lovely ceramics with images of Prague architecture, from L’Atelier de Tatal (France).

ceramics

Diego Noguera (Spain) demonstrated the art of medieval calligraphy.

calligraphy

The Czech office of the international humanitarian organization CARE sold necklaces that were handmade by women in Africa.

care

Metalsmith Petr Theimer (Czech Republic) showed off real suits of armor.

armor

Jerome Pierron (France) sold handmade baskets and led demonstrations of traditional basket-weaving techniques.

baskets

There was also a cart selling fresh Czech pancakes (palačinky) and elderflower lemonade.

pancakes

The next RU.KA.MA. art and craft market will be on Saturday, June 23rd! To find out more about the market, check out the website or Facebook Page.